Euraudio Consonus satellite speaker building instructions
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Caution: The mechanical guidelines is not a detailed mechanical drawing. For example, only the outside lines of the enclosure walls are drawn, the wall thickness is not shown.
There are two crossover options.
It's expediential to have the front enclosure panel prepared by using a CNC woodworking machine. It's rather difficult to make the countersinks for the tweeter faceplates at home. Of course it can be made using a router, provided you have the proper router bits, and a circle cutting jig. The internal edge of the midwoofer cutouts must be chamfered, at 7 mm depth, similarly as shown in the next image.
PVA wood glue, D3 type is recommended for gluing.
Fill the cabinet evenly with 60 g pillow stuffing material such as polyester pillow fill or long-fiber wool.
Please mind the polarity of the drivers, which is different for CS-XO1 and CS-XO2.
The crossover can be mounted on the inside bottom of the cabinet. Components with 3% or 5% tolerance are recommended. The best solution for fastening components seems to be cable ties. Tie them to a thin (e.g. 5 mm thick) HDF plate and screw that plate to the inside of the cabinet. I haven't made a component layout or PCB plan, just solder components together across their leads or use terminal strips.
All inductors are air core. Don't fasten coils with ferromagnetic metal screws (e.g. steel), because they may cause some distortion. Don't place inductors close to the ferromagnetic metal parts of the speakers.
In the circuit diagram of the crossover, the shown voltage of capacitors is the minimum suitable rating, you can also use capacitors with higher withstanding voltage. I recommend the Jantzen Cross Caps for this design. I don't recommend nonpolar (bipolar) electrolytic capacitors, avoid even types designated for use in crossovers. Never use polarized (unipolar) elcos in crossovers.
Copper speaker cable of at least 0,35 mm2 cross-section or CCAW speaker cable of at least 0,5 mm2 cross-section is recommended.